Nicolae Ceauşescu – where do you start? Anyone older than 30 will probably remember hearing his name on the news when he was deposed and executed in 1989. He had been the head of state since 1967, when he succeeded…

Our journey to Bucharest began with lovely Bulgarian mountain scenery as the sun gradually set. We had booked sleeper berths, and the lady at the station had considerately given us two bottom berths, saying that the train was not crowded,…